farm-to-table goes mainstream

The "farm-to-table" movement has of course made significant gains in the New York Metropolitan area, as there are now a growing number of organizations, restaurants, non-profits and visionaries dedicated to pushing it into the mainstream. But before that can happen it has to "get beyond easy," for New York metropolitans to integrate it into their daily lives, says Michel Nischan, president and CEO of the Westport, Conn.-based Wholesome Wave Foundation.

"Fifteen years ago, it wasn't," he explains. "It's easier now than ever with the green market boom," but when Nischan first started out as a chef it was extremely difficult to buy from farmers in Milwaukee, even though he was surrounded by farmland, as many of them simply were not equipped to service individuals locally. "It's only been in 'white table cloth' restaurants  within those 30 years (since Nischan became a chef) that you could find it (farm-to-table). Because you can't be a diner owner and buy from local producers. People would rather pay $5.95 or $6.95 for a giant plate of food rather than have farm-fresh eggs, and real heirloom potatoes." And to add insult to injury, when you realize that "white table cloth" makes up less than 15 percent of all restaurants, and at least half that say they're farm-to-table really aren't, that makes for less than 5 percent of the industry supporting local producers at any given time.

Wholesome Wave was founded on the realization that with those figures, the farm-to-table movement would never be a big deal. So among a number of initiatives they've undertaken to bring fresh, locally-grown produce to underserved communities is their Double Value Coupon Program. Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP, aka Food Stamps), electronic benefit transfer cards (EBT), WIC (Women, Infants, and Children) Framer's Market Nutrition Program vouchers, and Senior Farmers' Market Nutrition Program are doubled in value whenever recipients use them at farmers' markets. For a listing of participating partner organizations, click here.

"You look at what's going on in our underserved communities, where there are so many diverse ethnic backgrounds that have been removed from their food culture and placed in a 'food desert,' so to speak" Nischan says. It's not that they don't want to eat healthy or recreate those meals from their heritage. They simply don't have access to the tools the need to do so. "If you have to take two bus transfers just to even get to a grocery store, when vegetables are so expensive, you're going to buy off the middle aisles, where you can afford to."

Brooklyn-based bk farmyards is another organization dedicated to bringing fresh food and produce to communities in need. "We started last year, and the basics are that we partner with homeowners, developers, schools, and organizations to transport idle land to farmland," explains founder Stacey Murphy. Last year, they worked in backyards only, but are now branching out with a number of exciting projects that will educate many on how to integrate farm-to-table into their daily lives and its importance.

Their partnership with the New York Restoration Project (NYRP) will result in two sites: one that will provide farm fresh eggs to an underserved Crown Heights neighborhood through a 50-chicken hen house; one that will raise 3 beehives in a community garden and also provide education on bee harvesting.

Bk Farmyards will also join forces with Peter Moore Associates to convert an old printing warehouse in Gowanus into lofts, which are centered around a courtyard. The project is set to include an onsite restaurant. "We'll be farming the courtyard and all produce will be sold to the cafeteria for food for that chef to use," Murphy says. They will also develop a compost facility in the basement, and have a "farmer in residence," living and working in one of the lofts, Murphy says. The project should get underway next year.

"I'm hoping more developers will want to integrate farming into projects, otherwise, it's sometimes hard to find the space for it," Murphy says.

Everyone should be making a commitment to their local farms and especially to buying produce seasonally, says Nischal, as well as to restaurants that genuinely are "farm-to-table." He suggests visiting www.chefscollaborative.org—a non-profit of about 1500 chefs throughout the country that own restaurants that buy directly from local producers—where you can search for restaurants in your area that are. When visiting a farmer's market, also look for the individual logos each state provides that are proof the produce was grown by the seller, in that state. For more info on the "Pride of New York" logo, click here.

"Our belief is everyone should be able to make the same sandwich," says Nischal. "It would look different culturally of course but everyone should have access."

We also posed the question to our fans on Facebook if they know of any great restaurants in the tri-state area that employ farm-to-table and here are their suggestions. Enjoy! And don't forget to become a fan yourself and let us know if you try any out!

LOTS of votes for Blue Hill at Stone Barns: "Blue Hill and The Inn at Stone Barns, both by Dan Barber, are the quintessential farm to table restaurants."

"I believe Mohawk House in Sparta, NJ does."

"Savoy. Petter Hoffman is the originator of farm to market in NYC."

"Jack the Horse's Tavern in Brooklyn and Rouge Tomate."

"Almost Restaurant (in NYC and Bridgehamton)."

"Applewood in Park Slope. All local ingredients and they even offer "meet the farmer" dinners. Did I mention that the food is DIVINE!"

And finally, here's a few NYS staff suggestions: 

Dirt Candy (NYC)

Egg (Brooklyn)

Ninety Acres (New Jersey)